THE RISE OF BIG TEA: OWNERS AND INNOVATORS

There are a number of big players in the international tea business – some you have probably heard of, some with a surprisingly twisted backstory. To round out your understanding of where the world of tea production stands today, it is helpful to look at a brief sketch of who they are, what they sell, and their influence over the industry.

1706 – TWININGS TEA

31 year old Thomas Twining – a Freeman Weaver, by trade – enters the tea business when he purchased “Tom’s Coffee House” in 1706. Thomas was keen to stand out from the competition, so he introduced fine quality tea as a new offering. Tea was increasingly fashionable to drink and before long Thomas was selling more “dry” tea than “wet.” He sold dry tea to competitive coffee houses as well as wealthy households. 

Selling tea had become so popular, that by 1717 Thomas Twining had acquired two adjacent houses enabling him to convert one into a shop specifically for handcrafted and blended teas alongside his popular Coffee House. This was probably the world’s first dry tea and coffee shop.

History was made when Mary Twining, Daniel’s widow, took over the business. It was very unusual at the time for a woman to have this position. However, her tenacious character and business expertise enabled her to continue to run Twinings for the next 21 years.

Richard Twining (as well as a number of his descendants) were actively involved in a bunch of SERIOUSLY shady things: the subjugation of native peoples through the East India Company (of which he was a director) and the slave trade (via the Royal African Company). Many Twinings heirs worked hard to reform their family’s questionable legacy through generous gifts and significant charity work – much of what continues to this day.

Currently, Twinings is one of the largest and most influential tea companies to have ever existed, holds a royal warrant from Queen Victoria, holds the oldest continually used company logo, and has occupied the same building since 1706 – effectively making it the oldest company in the world. And their influence goes beyond being around a long time… nearly 5 million people drink Twinings tea every day.

1837: TETLEY TEA

In 1856, Joseph Tetley moved to London with his brother. They had been selling tea for a few years at their shop in Yorkshire, England (along with salt!) and wanted to expand. Joseph decided to go on his own and founded Joseph Tetley & Company, Wholesale Tea Dealers with his business partner Joseph Ackland. Over the course of nearly 170 years, Tetley has grown to be the second largest tea bag manufacturer in the world. There are no scandals, really. They make good tea (although certainly not GREAT tea), and have become a mainstay in millions of people’s homes all around the world.

Today, more than 5 million people make a cup of Tetley tea everyday.

Significant moments in Tetley History

1858 – Duncan Tea and the Rise of Camellia PLC

Duncan Tea was founded in 1858 by Walter & William Duncan in Calcutta, India. It is one of the world’s oldest tea companies and the oldest continually existing tea company in India. Over the 150 years of its history, there were mergers, unsavory tales of not paying workers, rumors of abuse and violence – but the company had done a remarkable job of keeping such things private. The war for independence and the subsequent partioning of the country took a huge toll on Duncan Brothers, and the company was subsumed by Camellia PLC in 1974.

Camellia traces their roots to Duncan publicly, but it is not clear how the relationship evolved.

Camellia PLC is a secretive company – although it is currently the largest grower of tea in the world, operating across 8 counties and with more than 100,000 workers at 67 tea estates. In addition to providing bulk tea to manufacturers, Camellia produces the popular brands Goodricke and Jing tea. Its primary raw tea product is CTC (cut-tear-curl) and only devotes about 8% of production to whole leaf, traditional tea.

The outsized influence of Camellia PLC on the tea growing industry can not be overstated.

1893 – LIPTON TEA

 In 1893, the self-made man and grocery chain owner, Sir Thomas Lipton, decided he should get into the tea business. He purchased a tea garden in Sri Lanka with the intention of turning a rare and expensive luxury into something that anyone, of any class, would be able to enjoy. He established the Thomas J Lipton tea packaging company in Hoboken, New Jersey. His first step? Looking for ways to make packaging and shipping less expensive. Instead of arriving in crates, loose tea was packed in multiple weight options and then sold in half pound increments. He also cut out the middleman and was the first to sell loose tea direct to the masses, with the advertising slogan: “Direct from the tea gardens to the teapot.” He took note of the interest in Sullivan’s tea bag idea and was the first to start selling tea bags. He was also the first to print brewing instructions on tea bag tags. 

Lipton Tea Bags – from 1920 to 1950

Fun Fact: Lipton was obsessed with racing boats and famously lost the America’s Cup race more than any other man in history: he spent over 25 million dollars (in today’s money) and lost five races in a row, making him the “best of all losers,” endearing him to the American public as a “folk hero,” and increasing brand recognition of his tea company.

Read about it here.

1904 – THE “DISCOVERY” OF ICED TEA

In 1904, Richard Blechynden, owner of a tea plantation, along with a group of tea producers, organized a tea pavilion at the St. Louis World’s Fair. They planned to offer cups of hot tea to all attendees. Unusually hot summer temperatures that year prompted them to pour their hot tea over ice, creating a quintessentially American way to imbibe tea — iced. Tea drinkers lined up to quench their summertime thirst with the frosty new innovation. Today, the U.S. guzzles almost 50 billion glasses of iced tea a year, accounting for more than 80% of all tea consumed in America.

1908 – 1944: THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE TEA BAG

The tea bag’s origins are somewhat debated, but the most popular story is that it was invented by accident in 1908 by Thomas Sullivan, a New York tea merchant when he accidentally sent tea samples to customers in small silk bags to prevent them from getting tangled. Customers mistakenly put the entire bag in the pot, and the tea bag was born.

Sullivan later switched from silk to gauze after customers said the silk mesh was too fine. 

The first purpose-made tea bags were developed in the 1920s and came in two sizes, one for the pot and one for the cup.  The tea bags we recognize today have a string that hangs over the side so the bag can be removed easily, and a decorated tag on the end.  The first tea bag packing machine was invented in 1929, and the heat-sealed paper fiber tea bag was patented in 1930. The rectangular tea bag wasn’t invented until 1944.

1945 – BIGELOW TEA

Ruth Campbell Bigelow, a tea connoisseur, founded the company after creating her first specialty tea, “Constant Comment” in her home kitchen. She was convinced that Americans wanted a more robust, interesting flavored-tea. Bigelow blended black tea with orange rind and sweet spices.  In 1970, David C. Bigelow, Ruth’s son, and his wife Eunice launched a line of specialty teas in grocery stores, which changed the company’s direction. David and Eunice pioneered the development of the foil pouch, which became the industry standard for protecting tea’s freshness and flavor. 

1983: HARNEY AND SONS

John Harney, the owner of the White Hart Inn in Salisbury, Connecticut, began blending tea in his basement. He was taught the skill by Stanley Mason, a third-generation tea merchant from London. Harney began serving his blends to guests at the inn, who soon returned for more. 

The company – still completely run by the Harney family – has grown from its original six teas to more than 300.  The company specializes in high-quality loose teas and herbal teas. Harney & Sons has expanded into branded stores, books, tasting rooms, and an array of additional merchandise. They also have a bottling facility and a 90,000 sq. ft. warehouse and headquarters in Millerton, NY.