Rice: Steamed, Pilaf, and Risotto

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A great bowl of classic steamed rice is amazing. Tender rice, separate grains, well seasoned, great texture without being mushy or “gloopy….” Getting there can be a challenge, though, even for culinary students. It doesn’t have to be… cooking rice is all about technique.

Then there are the more complicated rice dishes… pilafs, risottos, and paellas.

When chefs make rice pilaf, they expect two things: a light, fluffy texture—the individual grains of rice should be firm and separate, not mushy and stuck together—and bold, full flavors. Again, achieving this is a matter of technique – not specialized skills or equipment. The unique cooking process that gives pilaf its distinctive texture also provides several opportunities to incorporate flavor into the dish.

What chefs expect from a risotto, on the other hand, is completely different. A classic risotto should be creamy and rich – the rice does not take on a light, fluffy texture at all. In fact, if made correctly, it will seem that heavy cream has been added to the dish (even though few risotto recipes call for that), it will be quite loose, and can really only be eaten from a bowl. Some nasty people call risotto “soupy rice.” They are awful and should not be allowed to live. Of course, risotto can be cooked down for a firmer texture, but that is more a matter of personal taste and preference than it is how the dish is “supposed” to be made.

Classic Rice Pilaf
Classic Risotto

The only commonalities between risotto and pilaf are that both recipes call for toasting the rice and using stock or flavorful liquids for cooking. After that, the similarities end.

Background

Rice is a grain, and like all grains, it comes from a grass that grows edible seeds. Grains, along with meals (coarsely ground or crushed edible seeds of cereal grasses, e.g., cornmeal) and flours, are essential for everyday cooking. Whole grains are grains that have not been milled. In the milling process, the germ, bran, and hull of the grain are removed or polished, as in white rice. White rice is VERY long-lasting in cool, dry storage… but it has had many of the things which make rice healthy removed. Brown and whole-grain rices, on the other hand, are much better for you but go rancid quickly due to the fat content that is left behind.

A look inside a grain of rice

  • Hull
    • Each grain of rice is enclosed in a tough outer hull, or husk, that needs to be removed before it can be consumed. This layer is removed in all rice types.
  • Bran
    • Under the hull, the bran layer is not removed in all rice types. This nutritious whole grain section is usually tan-colored, but it may be reddish or black depending on the pigmentation in the bran layers. The bran layer may be consumed, but it is often removed when further processing rice.
  • White Rice
    • Once the bran and germ layers are removed, white rice remains. Known as the endosperm, this is the part of the rice that is most commonly consumed.

Converted and instant rice have been processed – cooked and dried – to speed up and simplify preparation. They are frequently sprayed with a blend of vitamins (enriched) to replace all the natural goodness that was removed during packaging.

Grains that are ground and broken down are often referred to as stone ground. In this process, the grains retain more of their nutrients because the germ, bran, and hull are left intact.

From the textbook: Whole grains have a shorter shelf life than milled grains. Purchase whole grains in quantities that can be used within three weeks. Carefully inspect grains when they are delivered. Check bags, boxes, and all containers to make sure they are intact, dry, and clean. Store rice and grains at least six inches above floor level on shelves in a dry, ventilated, and accessible area. Whole grains should be stored in the freezer. Brown rice and wild rice should be refrigerated.

Types of Rice

Short/ Medium Grain (japonica)
  • Short, fat grain
  • High starch content
  • Off-white
  • Creamy when cooked
  • Also known as Italian rice or sushi rice
  • Varieties include Arborio, Carolina Gold, “Sticky Rice,” Carnaroli, Piedmontese, and Vialone Nono
Long Grain (indica)
  • Extra-long grain
  • Fine,delicate texture
  • Aromatic, nutty flavor
  • Aged to reduce moisture content
  • Available as brown or white rice
  • Varieties include Jasmine, Texmati, Basmati, and Calespara

5 Keys to Rice Pilaf

1. Toast, simmer, rest

The basic technique for making pilaf is pretty straightforward: The rice first toasts in fat, then simmers in liquid, and finally rests off the heat. At each step, there’s a trick or two that will help deliver the fluffy texture pilaf is known for – as well as a chance to layer on flavor.

Rinse the rice with cold water, stirring it with your hands to remove as much of the surface starch as possible. This is necessary to get the separation of grains pilaf is known for. The water should be very cloudy. Drain through a fine-mesh strainer, and rinse again under cold running water. Drain thoroughly.

When making a risotto, this step would be stupid. We WANT the starches on the outside of the grains of rice to stay right where they are. Do NOT wash rice you are going to use for risotto.

Toasting the rice briefly over medium-low heat in oil, butter, or another fat is key to getting dry, separate grains of rice. And the toasting process itself also gives the rice a subtle nutty flavor. During toasting, the grains shouldn’t actually turn golden or brown. They will, however, lose their translucency, and the starches on the outside of each grain will firm up. As a result, the grains will absorb liquid slowly and thus maintain their shape as they cook.

Use a little less liquid than usual and simmer gently. Instead of using the standard 2:1 liquid to rice ratio, use 1-3/4 cups liquid for every 1 cup of rice. This helps ensure a dry, separate texture. Once you add the liquid, stir the pot once and no more. Then let the rice simmer undisturbed for 18 minutes (rather than the typical 20 minutes). Again, the less the rice is agitated, the less chance there will be for starches to gum things up.

2. Build layers of flavor

Saute rice with flavorful fat and aromatics

Use a flavorful broth or stock to cook rice.

After cooking, stir in fresh herbs or flavorful aromatics

Whenever you cook anything… you must be looking for the opportunity to add flavor.

By the way… There is nothing wrong with using water.

As much as broth is great for pilafs and risottos, there’s nothing wrong with cooking rice in water. As long interesting ingredients have been added during the sauté stage and a few flavorful finishing touches, a pilaf made with water will still be very tasty. In fact, water is the liquid of choice when the rice needs to retain its white color.

3. Use the right rice

The pilaf technique is important, but to guarantee perfect texture, it’s also necessary to use the right kind of rice. The best choice is long-grain white rice. The individual grains are long and slender, and they contain a type of starch that is more apt to let the grains stay separate and fluffy as they cook.

Other long-grain varieties work, too. Basmati rice, for example, is an aromatic variety that’s popular in India and Pakistan. It cooks up very dry, so it’s wonderful for pilaf. Another long-grain variety is Thai jasmine rice, which is aromatic and a tad stickier than basmati.

Food Science: Why long grain?

There are many kinds of rice, but only long-grain white rice is perfect for pilaf. Why? Because of its starch content. Different rice varieties contain different kinds and amounts of starch, and starch content is what ultimately determines whether rice grains become fluffy or sticky as they cook. Long-grain rice is rich in a type of starch (called amylose) that is quite stable and doesn’t get sticky during cooking, so the rice cooks up with firm, separate grains. Medium and short-grain rice varieties, on the other hand, contain high amounts of a different type of starch (called amylopectin), which makes the rice grains become soft and sticky as they cook.

On the other hand…

Risotto uses short grain rice, most often Arborio. If you didn’t use Arborio or another risotto rice, it wouldn’t be risotto, because its defining characteristic is the texture of the rice. Risotto rice contains a high amount of a starch called amylopectin. The more amylopectin that’s packed into the grains, the softer and creamier the rice becomes during cooking. Arborio, carnaroli, baldo, Roma, Vialone nano, and other risotto rices contain just the right amount of amylopectin to render the grains perfectly creamy on the surface yet chewy and al dente in the center. If you tried to make risotto with long-grain white rice, it would be too thin because of the lack of starch. And if you used a very high-starch glutinous or sticky rice, the grains would entirely disintegrate, and you would end up with a thick, gloppy mass.

The right type of rice isn’t the only factor in preparing a perfect risotto; it also depends on the way the rice is cooked. A risotto must be cooked without a lid and stirred throughout the cooking process. A large amount of cooking liquid, often a flavorful stock, is added in stages. Stirring roughs up the surface of the rice, releasing starch into the cooking liquid. The starch acts as a thickener and creates a creamy texture. And because risotto is cooked without a lid, the liquid evaporates and concentrates the flavors.

4. Let it rest

Finally, let the rice sit undisturbed off the heat with the cover on for 5 minutes. This allows the starch to firm up, which means the grains will be more likely to separate rather than stick when you fluff the rice and fold in your finishing touches.

Rice has to rest after heating to finish absorbing the liquid in the pan and for carry-over cooking to do it’s thing. Five minutes minimum, please.

5. Fluff before serving

Without a doubt, a fork is the best tool for fluffing rice pilaf. A spoon encourages clumping, but a fork’s narrow tines gently separate the grains without breaking them, which helps preserve the perfect texture you’ve taken pains to achieve. Use a light hand, because vigorous stirring could break up the grains and encourage them to cling together.

The fork-fluffing technique: Slip the tines down into the rice alongside the edge of the pan. Gently lift and toss the rice toward the center of the pan. Continue this process as you work your way around the perimeter. Then add finishing-touch ingredients and gently fold them in with the fork, using a similar gentle fluffing motion.

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Classic Steamed White Rice

Steaming rice is all about technique, not recipes. Follow this guide for perfect stove-top rice every time.
Course Side Dish
Keyword Basics

Instructions

  • Rinse the rice until the water runs clear, then soak for 10-15 minutes in cool water. Drain well.
  • Use the right ratio of water: 2 parts water to 1 part rice. For slightly firmer rice, use 1 part liquid to 2/3 parts rice.
  • Bring the water to a boil. Once it's boiling, add a big pinch of salt. Add rice.
  • Reduce heat to low and bring the rice to a gentle simmer (185-195*F, with bubbles just breaking the surface). Cover the pot with a tight fitting lid.
  • Cook without peeking or stirring. Cook until the water is absorbed, about 18 minutes. Do not open the lid during cooking so the steam doesn't escape. Do not mix or stir the rice while it's cooking at all — this will lead to gummy rice.
  • Let the rice rest covered. Turn off the heat and let the rice sit, covered, for 10 minutes. During this time, the rice will steam for extra fluffy results.
  • Fluff the rice with a fork. Add a pat of butter, if desired. Taste and adjust seasoning.
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Mushroom Risotto

Course Side Dish
Cuisine Italian

Ingredients

  • 4 cups chicken broth
  • tablespoon oil
  • 1 lb white mushrooms sliced thin
  • 1 shallot diced fine
  • ¾ cup arborio rice
  • salt to taste
  • black pepper to taste
  • 1 ½ tablespoons chives
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • ¼ cup grated parmesan cheese
  • 3 tablespoons finely chopped parsley

Instructions

  • Heat the broth over low heat.
  • In a large saucepan, heat 1½ tablespoons of oil and cook the mushrooms until soft, about 3 minutes
  • Put the mushrooms and the liquid in a bowl and reserve.
  • Add the remaining 1 tablespoons oil to saute pan, and cook the onions for 1 minute.
  • Stir in the rice, coating it with oil, and toast for about 2 minutes.
  • When the rice has taken on a pale, golden color, add 1/2 cup broth to the rice, and stir until the broth is absorbed.
  • Continue adding broth 1/2 cup at a time, stirring continuously, until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is al dente. Taste test the rice – it should be soft with just a touch of bite in the center.
  • Remove from heat and stir in mushrooms with their liquid, butter, and parmesan.
  • Stir in parsley. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
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Classic Rice Pilaf

Course Side Dish
Cuisine Italian

Ingredients

  • 1 ½ cups basmati or other long-grain rice
  • 3 Tbs. unsalted butter or mild vegetable oil
  • 1 small yellow onion finely diced
  • 2 ⅔ cups hot lower-salt chicken broth or water
  • fine sea salt to taste
  • freshly ground black or white pepper to taste

Instructions

  • In a large bowl, rinse the rice with cold water, stirring it with your hands to remove as much of the surface starch as possible. The water should be very cloudy. Drain through a fine-mesh strainer, and rinse again under cold running water. Drain thoroughly.
  • Heat the butter or oil in a 4-quart heavy-duty saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent and tender, about 3 minutes.
  • Add the rice and cook, stirring, until the grains are translucent, about 3 minutes. For a toastier flavor, continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the rice is lightly colored and smells nutty, about 2 minutes more.
  • Stir in the broth or water, salt, pepper, and saffron, if using. Bring to a boil, and then lower the heat so that the liquid simmers gently. Cover and cook until the rice grains are plump, fluffy, and separate, and all of the liquid has been absorbed, 15 to 18 minutes. (Check by using a skewer or other utensil to poke through the rice to the bottom of the pan.)
  • Remove the pan from the heat, uncover, lay a folded kitchen towel over the pan, and cover again to hold the towel in place. Let the rice rest for 5 to 10 minutes. Remove the lid and towel, fluff the rice with a fork, and serve.

Notes

Want to learn about the history of Pilaf? Visit SmartKitchen’s excellent blog post: https://www.smartkitchen.com/resources/history-of-pilaf
 

Fine Cooking’s Excellent Guide to Rice Varietals

Getting-the-most-from-your-grains

Rice Cooking Methods

  • Simmering/Steaming: Bring measured liquid to a boil. Add rice, stir to disperse, and reduce heat to a simmer. Cover and simmer until rice is tender and liquid is absorbed. Remove from heat; let stand 5 minutes. Remove cover and fluff with a fork to help release steam.
  • Boiling: Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add rice, stir to disperse, cover, and boil until rice is tender; drain.
  • Pilaf Method: Sauté onion in oil or butter. Add rice and sauté until lightly toasted. Add hot liquid, stir to disperse, and bring to a simmer. Cover and simmer until rice is tender and liquid is absorbed. Remove from heat; let stand 5 minutes. Remove cover and fluff with a fork to help release steam.
  • Risotto: Sauté onion in butter. Stir in rice to coat. Add wine and simmer gently until most of the liquid is absorbed, stirring often. Add stock in small increments ( just enough to cover rice) and stir until each addition is absorbed before adding the next. Just before the last addition has been absorbed, stir in flavorful additions (herbs, sautéed vegetables, poached seafood) and grated cheese and/or butter. Serve immediately.
  • Paella: Sauté aromatic vegetables and meat in a wide shallow pan. Add rice and seasoning and stir until aromatic. Add liquid, bring to a simmer, cover and simmer until rice is barely tender. Add seafood and any additional vegetables, cover and cook until the seafood is firm and the rice forms a light crust across the bottom of the pan.